Siding is something that declines in value over time. A homeowner needs to determine when the decline in value is such that a repair will not cover the cost for long and a full tear-out and re-siding of a wall will be required. Most of the money is spent in the window of time when the siding is starting to look a little worse for wear and is about to start to cause damage.
Reading the signals that separate cosmetic wear from wall failure
Cosmetic deterioration, such as faded color, chalk lines on vinyl siding, and slight cupping of wood siding, may require repainting. However, if there is no indication of damage to the face of the siding then the deterioration is normal and does not require replacement of the siding.
Look for horizontal lines of pulled nails. There is a big difference between a siding fastener pulling out of the siding and the sheathing behind it pulling out. Staining on the interior of the wall beneath a window, softening or splitting of trim at butt joints and a musty odor in closets on the weather side of a home all indicate that the water-resistive barrier has failed and water is entering the home.
Confirming the diagnosis before quoting
Pulling a single course of siding near a corner of the worst area of the house will allow you to check on the water-resistive barrier and the sheathing. Any rot found in the rim joist or at the bottom of the exterior walls of a framed house is a framing problem and must be included in the scope of work for the siding repair. This will not make a good change order in week 2 of the job.
Choosing between repair, overcladding, and full replacement
Most contractors will recommend a full removal of your exterior walls. This way, they can check the underlayment for any possible damage or failure. However, overcladding of exterior walls can be very cost effective in terms of disposal costs and can be installed over your existing exterior walls. However, the overcladding hides the substrate of your exterior walls and can increase the thickness of your exterior walls. This can cause problems with window returns and other exterior trim details.
| Approach | Best suited to | Typical service extension | Main risk |
| Targeted repair | Localized impact damage, one or two elevations, sound barrier | 5 to 10 years | Color match on aged material is rarely exact |
| Overcladding | Flat, dry substrate with no moisture history and adequate trim depth | 20 to 30 years | Concealed defects continue to progress unseen |
| Full tear-off and replacement | Any confirmed moisture intrusion, or cladding past 80 percent of rated life | 30 to 50 years by material | Higher upfront cost and longer exposure during work |
Matching material to exposure, not to catalog appeal
Material selection typically begins with the worst elevation of the home. This is why fiber cement is such a great product. Not only does it hold up well against wind driven rain, but it is also very impact resistant. The proper installation of the siding with the correct clearance above grade as well as proper intersection with the roof is crucial to its performance. Another popular product on the market is engineered wood. These products are light and easy to install, but each cut edge must be sealed to prevent premature failure. There are also versions of engineered wood that are insulated. These products have better thermal properties, as well as being stiffer than their hollow-back counterparts. These products typically cost a little more than their hollow-back counterparts, but are worth it in the long run.
- Southern and western walls take the most ultraviolet load, so specify the higher-grade finish there even if budget forces a compromise elsewhere.
- Elevations below tree cover stay damp longer and favor materials with proven mold and insect resistance.
- Homes in wind zones need fastener schedules and starter strip details that match the tested assembly, not the installer’s habit.
The detail that outlasts the material
Flashing around penetrations, kickout flashing at the roof-to-wall joint, and proper space behind the siding to drain are far more important to a house’s exterior than the siding material itself. A mid-grade siding with proper installation of a rainscreen will outlast premium siding installed too tightly to the felt.
Evaluating a contractor by method rather than price per square
Virtually all of the price differential for a given quality of siding is in the scope of work. Therefore, it is critical that the homeowner requires bids to be in writing with complete detail for the WRB, furring, etc. As well as a complete explanation of how they would complete the work if there were found to be a significant amount of rot in the framing. Typically, the most cost effective contractor will include the cost of his labor in the repair of any damage found to exist in the structure’s framing.
- Request the manufacturer installation manual reference the crew will follow, since warranty coverage depends on it.
- Confirm who holds the permit and who performs the work, as brokered jobs pass through subcontractors with no accountability to the warranty.
- Ask for two addresses completed three or more years ago, then look at the joints and corners.
Local experience is the best. Homeowners are usually better served by a crew that handles siding installation Frederick MD year round, because they have experience dealing with the unique situations that occur in Frederick. This includes the freeze-thaw cycling that occurs in Frederick, the very humid summers that occur in Frederick and the variety of older masonry buildings and newer frame buildings. Therefore, their detailing for the installation of siding will reflect the variety of buildings in Frederick.
Maintenance that preserves both the wall and the warranty
Most manufacturer siding warranties require regular maintenance of the siding to keep the warranty in force. Typically the homeowner is required to wash the siding with low pressure washes, check the caulk around the windows and doors for cracks, and trim back plants and trees near the house.
Schedule a two-year inspection of sealants and a five-year inspection of coatings on painted siding for a check-up. Take dated photos of the siding and document the findings in a log for future reference. Siding that is regularly inspected rarely needs to be replaced.
